The Revolution - Cantilever Air Ride Installation Guide

The Revolution - Cantilever Air Ride Installation Guide

 

The Revolution, T1 / T3 Rear Air Ride Installation Guide

License of Design Under Floor Bolt on Cantilever Rear Suspension System - Limebug Ltd

 

Welcome to the Limebug ‘Revolution’ Cantilever Rear air ride kit.

Enclosed Step-by-Step Guide to Installation / Operation of this system.

NOTE: if running Height Sensors or Heater Pipes insure the sections are all pre-tapped for bolt fixings prior to full installation                                                                                                                                                                                  

Contents

 

Step 1: Removal of the original system.. 2

Step 2: Installing the Cantilever Module. 3

Step 3: Pushrod Positioning. 5

Step 4: Optional (Heater Tube Fitting). 6

Step 5: Optional (Height Sensor Fitting). 6

Step 6: Air Lines / Wiring / Fit Up. 7

Step 7: Final Checks. 8

Step 8: Operation. 9

Disclaimer and Legal10

 

 

Step 1: Removal of the original system

 

  1. Disconnect the Battery

 

  1. Remove the rear wheels from the vehicle and jack up or lift on ramps from below the torsion tube housing (directly below where the spring plate meets the chassis).

 

  1. Remove the starter motor main core power cable / solenoid signal wire (just the cable not the whole unit).

Note: In some cases it is essential to swap out a 6 volt starter motor to a 12V unit due to the body length, When first offering up the air ride cradle check the clearance to the body of the starter as some 6 volt starters will still fit, but as a general rule it is best to convert anyway as you will require 12V to power the compressors/ management.

  1. Next loosen the 4x 15mm headed M10 bolts from the torsion tube cover (note that on some years (with torsion bar lengths over 24”) the removal of the wing (Beetle Models) may also be necessary).

 

  1. Remove the Stock Damper /Shock and any Bump Stops, if a later model remove also the Z-Bar Anti-roll Bar.

 

  1. Next remove the spring plates, there are several ways of doing this but we find the simplest way is to remove the 3x bolts attaching the spring plate to the axle.

 

  1. Swing Axle Models:

Slide the axle towards the rear of the vehicle until it drops down. Note that in some cases the handbrake cables may need to be slackened or released all together in order to do this.

  1. IRS Models:

IRS models are significantly more difficult to do unfortunately, free the bolts connecting the spring plate to the IRS arm and lift the IRS arm upwards or downwards (depending on if the vehicle is lowered prior) this will allow the spring plate to separate from the arm.

  1. Now the spring plate is free, use a pry bar (crowbar) to lift the spring plate away from the lower bump stop and relieve it from the chassis. At this point fully remove the torsion bar (The cantilever system is designed to operate as true air ride, meaning it does not require the torsion bar to be re-installed).

 

  1. You are now ready to install the main Cantilever assembly.

 

Step 2: Installing the Cantilever Module

 

For this section, there is a number of combinations of chassis/ axle/ body style as well as hybrid combinations. The revolution system has a way of functioning on all platforms but there may be certain circumstances we have not fully covered in this guide, please do not hesitate to reach out to a Limebug team member for assistance with your build.

 

Pass the two main cradle halves over the top of the gearbox and attached together with the joiner brackets (This can be done more easily with help from a buddy). Rotate the cradle on its side to give better access to the Nut / Bolt Assemblies (tilting the open bag side to point upwards).

Leave the joiner brackets not fully pinched up, that can be done at the final step of installation.

  1. Next install the main hanger tabs. This section varies from model to model however the basic method is the same, these mount in place of the original upper damper mount.
    1. T1 Beetle / Karmann Ghia Post 1960 (inc 1302/03 Super Beetle)

Install the Tubular Tab using the long 130mm Bolts, assemble in the standard format of Bolt-Washer, then through the shock mount, then the long 70mm tubular tab to Washer-Nut (M12) (should arrive in a zinc silver finish). Leave slightly loose to allow rotation.

  1. T181 / T182 Trekker, T1 Beetle / Karmann Ghia Pre 1959

 

Install the Tubular Threaded Tab using the provided Bolts, install in the Bolt using sprung washer directly behind the head of the bolt, the bolt will thread into the tab itself once fitted, leave slightly loose to allow rotation.

 

  1. Type 3 (Notchback /Squareback / Fastback) & T34 Razor

Install the Round Spacer Tube into the stock shock position, then the Tubular Tab using the provided Bolts, install in the Bolt using sprung washer directly behind the head of the bolt, the bolt will thread into the chassis itself once fitted, leave slightly loose to allow rotation.

 

  1. Now the main hanger tabs are fitted, slide the large Cradle Assembly onto them from the front side -> back, on certain models (predominately Type 1 Late models a section of the inner wing will impede the easy fixing of the clevis M10 bolt. There is a couple of solutions to this but the simplest way is to slide the bolt halfway up into the clevis first, then as you slide the large assembly onto the main hanger tab it will miss the bodywork, this means no damage or bending of inner wing panels is required.

 

 

 

  1. Next to install the front support hangers

 

  1. T1 Beetle / Karmann Ghia (inc 1302/03 Super Beetle) & Trekker

Mount the Dog-Legged support hangers to the torsion bar loosely, the round clamps will allow them to be spun round into place. (13mm Spanner Size), these should be mounted so the dog leg points outward to the chassis (this will allow for heater tube clearance). Leave loose currently

Rotate the support hangers around until the two mounting holes (M10 bolts) are aligned, insert the Bolt->Washer->Front Hanger->Main Cradle ->Washer->Nut Format for both holes, repeat this step on both sides.

 

NOTE: The Hanger will typically sit on the outer most side when securing the M10 Bolts

 

Now tighten the 13mm Head nuts on the torsion tube clamps, these will come pre-assembled with a small spacer tube, be sure to re-fit these when assembling onto the vehicle.

Now tighten the M10 Hanger Bolts Securely

 

  1. Type 3 (Notchback /Squareback / Fastback) & T34 Razor

Remove the Subframe Mounting Bolt (M10) 17mm Bolt Head just behind and inward of the Spring Plate Cover, this bolt points vertically upwards.

Insert the Support Hangers Bracket in place of the SubFrame Washer, and rebuild to original specification. Leave this bolt loose for now.

Slide the bracket until the two mounting holes (M10 bolts) are aligned, insert the Bolt->Washer->Front Hanger->Main Cradle ->Washer->Nut Format for both holes, repeat this step on both sides. Tighten Securely

 

NOTE: The Hanger will typically sit on the outer most side when securing the M10 Bolts.

 

Now tighten the M10 Subframe Bolt Securely.

 

 

  1. Now tighten Fully:

 

  1. Joiner Plates (The Plates that join the two main cantilever Modules together)

 

  1. Clevis Joints (The vertical Threaded bolts that join the Main Mounting Tab to the Main Cantilever Module)

 

  1. The Main Tabs (The tabs in place of the original shock mounts).

 

 

 

 

Step 3: Pushrod Positioning

 

The Main Cantilever is now fully secured and in place, next is positioning the pushrod.

When setting the pushrod position the revolution system has been designed to be compatible with several models of VW chassis. However, the positioning and operation varies depending on year and model.

 

  • Post 60 Swing Axles (later style gearbox) will need to install the pushrod using the misalignment washers (Comes pre-assembled in the box. NOTE: One end of the pushrods will include a spacer (approx. 5-6mm in width) This mounts to the top of the assembly. (The Cantilever Arm.)

Position the spacer to the FRONT SIDE of the cantilever, this will mean your pushrod sits closer to the rear of the car, this is the correct alignment.

For the Lower Mount use the mis-alignment washers but NOTE, must mount to OPPOSITE SIDE to the factory location of the factory shock/damper. Do not mount on the factory side as the rod travel will not work as intended.

 

  • IRS A-Arm Wishbones will need to install the pushrod using the misalignment washers (Comes pre-assembled in the box. NOTE: One end of the pushrods will include a spacer (approx. 5-6mm in width) This mounts to the top of the assembly. (The Cantilever Arm.)

Position the spacer to the REAR SIDE of the cantilever, this will mean your pushrod sits closer to the front of the car, this is the correct alignment in most cases.

Next Install the IRS Strengthener Cup, This cup will drop into the top IRS lower damper mount from the top side, sometimes the tabs may need a light squeeze to insure an easy drop in fit.

For the Lower Mount use the mis-alignment washers but assemble as supplied, washers on the outside, Misalignment washers in the centre, note in some cases an additional washer way be require to successfully space the lower pushrod mount. Fixing Assembly definition. Bolt->Washer->IRSArm->StrengthenerCup->MisAliWasher->Washer->Pushrod->MisAliWasher->StrengthenerCup->IRSArm->Washer->Nut

 

  • Pre-59 IRS Axles (Early style gearbox) will need to install the pushrod using the misalignment washers (Comes pre-assembled in the box. NOTE: One end of the pushrods will include a spacer (approx. 5-6mm in width) This mounts to the top of the assembly. (The Cantilever Arm.)

Position the spacer to the FRONT SIDE of the cantilever, this will mean your pushrod sits closer to the rear of the car, this is the correct alignment.

The Lower Mount now again using the mis-alignment washers must mount to INSIDE edge aka the factory location of the factory shock/damper. Note in some cases and additional tab maybe required, contact a Limebug Team Member for more info

 

IMPORTANT

Once installed, lift with a jack the axle up and down to check limits, the pushrod must have the ability to slightly rotate at the upper extreme and lower extreme limits. If this is not the case, please contact a Limebug team member to insure correct installation.

Step 4: Optional (Heater Tube Fitting)

 

If heater pipe has been selected as an option you will need to follow this step, if not bypass this step:

 

  • T1 Beetle / Karmann Ghia (inc 1302/03 Super Beetle) & Trekker

Install the supplied heater pipe in the factory inlet and outlet points, be sure to route the pipe BELOW the Cantilever air cradle, supplied also will be an air feed pipe clamp which will help secure the heater pipe to the cradle. Be sure to ensure the heater pipe is clear of pneumatic and electrical cables.

  • Type 3 (Notchback /Squareback / Fastback) & T34 Razor

 

Install the supplied heater pipe in the factory inlet and outlet points, be sure to route the pipe OVER the Cantilever air cradle, supplied also will be an air feed pipe clamp which will help secure the heater pipe to the cradle. Be sure to ensure the heater pipe is clear of pneumatic and electrical cables.

 

Step 5: Optional (Height Sensor Fitting)

 

To install height sensors. Mounts should be pre-drilled and tapped into your cradle,

 

The main unit will secure to the body of the Cantilever, Holes are tapped to standard M6 thread size, note the angle of the height sensors to match operational range to manufacturer specifications.

 

When installing the pushrod sensor this will need to be at the shortest length, and possibly skim off an additional 2-4mm approx. off the base to allow good clearance to the boot floor deck height (Mainly applies to T1 Beetle / Ghia and Trekker Models).

 

Now tie the electronics up using the supplied cable tie fixing holes along with the pneumatic lines.

 

 

Step 6: Air Lines / Wiring / Fit Up


Now all Hardware is installed.

Connect the air line to the cantilever cradle, each cradle has pre-cut cable tie fixing holes to guide your pneumatic and electrical (for height sensor) cables.

Air Line (and optional electrics) Typically is routed through the central spine (central chassis tube), avoid running airline under the vehicle.

We would recommend drilling two small holes either side of the shift rod and then thread the air line through and out the frame head at the front of the vehicle to the most common mount area for the air management.

 

 

 

Step 7: Final Checks

 

Almost there, but first there are some key checks to carry out.

  1. Check the fuel line / pipe exit from the chassis has good clearance to the inner air bag, this can be easily held to one side with a tie wrap should it be encroaching on the bag position.
  2. Check the Starter Power Cable is not snagging or tugging anywhere around the cantilever cradle, ensure all terminals are secure and in good condition then re-fit.
  3. Check all brake lines are in good condition and that through the full range of travel with adequate slack and space for movement.
  4. Check the cantilever pushrods have motion for slight rotation at Upper most and Lower Most limits.
  5. Ensure all fixings and hardware are secured, double check all fixings twice/ three times and one more for good luck.
  6. Always insure to use PTFE Paste, NEVER PTFE tape, this is one of the biggest causes of air leaks.
  7. Test fit with wheels before dropping to the ground, this step helps ensure limit settings are correct to the desired ride height and wheel / tyre combo.
  8. If running height sensors, ensure optimal travel range and does not exceed the limit of the sensors, particularly on the boot floor.
  9. Use the integrated tie wraps fixtures to secure all pneumatic pipe/ wiring components securely.
  10. Last re-connect the battery, test the system, and inspect for leaks, and good smooth operation.
  11. Enjoy the “Revolution” Cantilever Air Ride system, and be sure to Share with us on social media
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The Revolution - Cantilever Air Ride Installation Guide

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